Writer Jennifer Poe arrived in Buenos Aires armed with contact info for the only stylist in a 50-mile radius who could do black hair and a sense of adventure. Shortly after, she encountered a word she hadn't heard before: morocha. According to Poe, “I thought people were calling me a roach—granted, some exotic breed of roach that only skittered through luxury—but a roach! When I found out they were basically saying, ‘Hey, black girl, hey!’ I took it as a term of endearment.” This was one of many things Jennifer would learn while living as a black woman in Argentina, where only 0.4 percent of its 41 million inhabitants identified as Afro-Argentine in 2010, the first time in its history that the census counted race.
We also dispel some common Argentine stereotypes (Sexy, steak-eating cowboys dancing the tango in front of technicolor buildings? Think again.), discuss why BA rivals Paris as one of the best cities for artists, and talk about the eternal battle of "vacation self" vs. "real-life self."
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